Showing posts with label St Gilles. Show all posts
Showing posts with label St Gilles. Show all posts

Sunday, 26 March 2017

Diving the Hai Siang

The Hai Siang is a 49-metre former Taiwanese fishing boat that was voluntarily sunk off the coast of Cap Homard (Reunion Island) in 1983. The name means 'wild pig' in Chinese. It lies on a sandy bottom at 55 metres deep and, if you are appropriately qualified, it makes for good diving as you can see from the photos below. We saw lots of snappers, unicorn fish, trumpetfish and clown triggerfish. Unlike the Antonio Lorenzo it rests upright.

Hai Siang looking at the bow 

Hai Siang mast

Hai Siang stern

school of snappers

me with snappers

deck, looking aft

on the seabed, off to starboard side.

mast

looking down at the deck to the entrance to the holds

To finish with, a professional photo of the Hai Siang by Gaby Barathieu:

Saturday, 3 May 2014

Jardin d'Eden

Reunion's 'Garden of Eden' is a tropical, ethnobotanical garden spread over two and a half hectares on the island's west coast at St Gilles.

Entrance to the Jardin d'Eden

The Garden is divided into a number of theme areas: ethnobotany, fragrant plants, a zen garden, an aquatic area, and also has some bee hives. It is a member of  Botanic Gardens Conservation International, the Association of Botanical Gardens of France, and the French National Council for the Conservation of Plants and Gardens.

The Jardin d'Eden reception area in an enormous oak vat, built in
1847 and which contained 510,000 litres of rum!

600 different plants grow in the garden. Most are labelled with their latin and local names, plant family and place of origin. The labels use a colour-coded system: yellow for medicinal plants, red for fragrant plants, white for those used for edible or dyeing purposes and green for plants that are simply attractive to look at! There are also endemic, sacred and spice plants as well as palm trees, cacti and bamboo.

Strelitzia

The plant families with the most varieties are: Euphorbiaceae and Liliaceae (40+ each); Leguminosae, Apocynaceae and Palmae (30+ each); Acanthaceae, Araceae, Gramineae and Cactaceae (20+ each).


About 60 noteworthy plants are explained in greater detail in a booklet (in French, English or German) that is lent to you at the start of the visit.

Gomphocarpus physocarpus / Ballonplant / Ti-ouete

Cannabis in Reunion island is called 'zamal', from the Malagasy word zamala. It doesn't grow wild on the island, only where it has been planted (generally in the middle of a field of maize or sugar cane)! In the Garden it's been planted in a 19th-century copper cauldron used by Mme Desbassyns to feed the slaves on her plantation in order to symbolise the slavery that the use of cannabis entails.

Cannabis sativa / Cannabis / Zamal 

Hibiscus calyphyllus / Lemon Yellow Rosemallow 

Vetiveria zizaniodes / Vetiver / Vetyver

bamboo root

Crescentia cujete / Calabash / Calebassier, native to Panama

Pomegranates were brought back from the East via Northern Africa by the Romans at the time of the Punic Wars, hence its Latin name Punica. (Modern-day Tunisia roughly corresponds to what was Punic territory). The fruit peel, stalks and roots of pomegranates can be used for their yellow colouring properties and are used to dye Tunisian carpets and tan Moroccan leathers. According to Chinese medicine the pomegranate is also an efficient vermifuge, in particular for tapeworm.

Punica granatum nana / Dwarf Pomegranate / Grenadier nain, native to Iran

Ficus aspera / Clown Fig / Figuier clown, native to the S. Pacific

A number of animal species visit or live in the Garden such as moorhens, bitters, turtledoves, waxbills, and bulbuls.

dragonfly

In the aquatic zone is papyrus, used by the Egyptians to make parchment. Papyrus have a ball-like head made of thread-like leaves.

Cyperus papyrus / Papyrus

in the aquatic area

in the aquatic area


For most of the year the Lipstick tree (or 'Achiote') looks like an ordinary shrub (see below). But between May and August it bears scarlet fruit that have long been used by the American Indians to dye their hair and skin; a paste can also be made to colour lips. These 'redskins' fought Francisco de Orellana when he explored South America in 1541-42 and the scientific name refers to him. One tree gives 150-250kg per year of  seeds and pulp containing  carotenoids and tannin. Today, as well as being found in lipstick, the red dye from this shrub is also used in the paraffin coating of certain Dutch cheeses.

Bixa orellana / Lipstick tree / Roucou, native to tropical America

The Golden dewdrop is the garden's mascot plant. Its fruit are odourless but toxic and can only be eaten by birds. It has purple flowers which smell like vanilla, hence it's local name of "wild vanilla".

Duranta repens / Golden dewdrop  / Vanillier marron

In a climate like that of Reunion, the long furry red catkins of the Chenille plant flower all year round. The catkins are made of thousands of tiny flowers and are only found on female plants.

Acalypha hispida / Chenille plant / Queue de mimite, native to India

The 'Traveller's palm' is the emblem of Madagascar however it is not a true palm but a member of the bird-of-paradise family, Strelitziaceae. Ravenala, as it is known locally, means 'leaf of the forest' in Malagasy. The sheaths of its stems hold rainwater, which supposedly could be used as an emergency drinking supply for needy travellers. However, the water inside the plant is murky, black and smelly and should not be consumed without purification. Another plausible reason for its name is that the fan tends to grow on an east-west line, providing a crude compass reference. Its leaves can be used to roof huts or for medical treatments such as generalised oedema.

Ravenala madagascariensis / Traveller's tree / Arbre du voyageur

The Garden is open daily from 10am to 6pm, closed only for Christmas and New Year's Days.


See also the Garden's own website (in English and French) for the address and contact details.


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Tuesday, 3 September 2013

Chapelle Pointue

To me what is most striking about the Chapelle Pointue (Pointed Chapel) is not its pointed spire, but its round, rotunda shape. Located in an area of Reunion known as St Gilles Les Hauts this chapel is the burial place for Mme Ombline Desbassayns, a wealthy 19th century landowner whose fortune came from sugar and coffee. Born to a rich family in 1755, she married wealthy settler Henri Paulin Panon Debassayns when she was 14 and he was 38. They had 13 children (though 4 died young) and her husband died aged 68, leaving her, aged 45, to run the family estates, which prospered, making her St Paul's richest landowner. 

Mme Desbassayns (source)

She died in 1846 and the jury is still out on whether she was a cruel woman whose ghost still inhabits the Piton de la Fournaise (where her screams can supposedly be heard from the hellish fires whenever the volcano is erupting), or whether she was - as her tombstone declares - the "second providence". Doubtless the truth probably lies somewhere between these two extremes. 

Chapelle Pointue

In order to give her slaves religious instruction and to offer a place of worship to those living in Reunion's highlands Mme Desbassayns established a chapel in the 1830s in one of her houses, at a place called l'Ermitage. Until then you had to go to the church in St Paul. Then a new rotunda-shaped chapel was built to the east of the main house (the Musée de Villèle today) on land overlooking St Gilles ravine. The first stone was laid on November 17th 1841 in the presence of the Governor Rear Admiral de Hell (who gave his name to Hellbourg), and the construction lasted 21 months. It was inaugurated on August 16th 1843 by Bishop Poncelet.

This stone commemorates the chapel's
inauguration and reads: "Dedicated to the piety 
of the faithful at the initiative of B. Ombeline M. 
Montbrun widow Panon Desbassayns, this 
cornerstone was erected in the year of our Lord 
1841 in the presence and with the blessing of 
the Apostolic Vicar Bishop Dalmont 
and Rear Admiral de Hell".

In 1856 a new, larger parish church was built in Saint Gilles les Hauts and the Chapelle Pointue essentially became a family chapel. In 1866, twenty years after her death, Mme Desbassayns' ashes were transferred from the Marine Cemetery of St Paul to the chapel. 

Mme Desbassyns' tombstone in the chapel,
 which refers to her as the "Second Providence".

During the second half of the 19th century a Jesuit missionary undertook to decorate the chapel's interior. The building was almost completely destroyed on February 4th 1932 (the anniversary of Mme Desbassayns' death) by a violent cyclone, and was reconstructed the following year with a few changes, notably the opening of four doors in the rotunda wall. In 1934 the rebuilt chapel was re-inaugurated by Bishop de Beaumont, whose motto 'With Bravery to Martyrdom' (Avec courage jusqu'au martyr) is inscribed on the coat of arms above the entrance porch.

the chapel in the 1930s (source)

In 1970 the building was classed as a heritage site, and in 1978 it came under the ownership of Reunion's General Council, who signed a 99-year lease with the Diocese Association. The General Council worked hand-in-hand with the Regional Office of Cultural Affairs to fully renovate the chapel between 2001-2003.

inside the chapel

The white marble altar was carved in Nantes in 1845 by the sculptor Vital Bousquet.

inside the chapel, showing the white marble altar 


The architecture of the building is composite, combining neo-Gothic style (ogival archways) with Asian influences (a roof reminiscent of a Chinese pagoda). 

makeshift shrines outside the chapel

The chapel is dedicated to the Virgin Mary and Sainte Ombeline.

a statue of St George in the chapel

 The chapel is indicated by signs, and is free to visit.